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Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life

Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life

作者 : William Finnegan

出版社 : PENGUIN GROUP (USA) INC.

可訂購

定價 : NT 595

售價9折, NT536

內容簡介


2016年普立茲獎傳記類得主
作家、戰地記者William Finnegan,也是衝浪愛好者,充滿冒險精神的傳記。
這是一部老派的冒險故事、知性的自傳、社會史,以及文學公路電影。 
「讀他寫衝浪,就像讀海明威寫鬥牛。」

誰說衝浪只是一項運動?作者與衝浪緊緊交織的人生,將帶給您完全不同的想法、顛覆讀者對於衝浪的一切想像!
《紐約客》特約撰稿人William Finnegan以衝浪貫穿的人生故事

◎2016年普立茲傳記文學獎得主(2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography)
◎《時代雜誌》2015年非小說類圖書前十名(Top 10 Nonfiction Books of 2015)

於加州與夏威夷長大的William Finnegan,記錄求學時代的挫折、從衝浪中尋求的心靈慰藉、因為衝浪而發展出的友誼、1960年代天翻地覆的生活,以及他走遍世界各地的冒險故事,從南太平洋、澳洲、亞洲到非洲,帶領讀者走進不甚熟悉的世界,紀錄異國風情,以及種族與文化的交會。

他對於衝浪的觀察與紀錄,以及與衝浪的情感連結,為衝浪相關圖書中的翹楚。衝浪也間接將他帶往新聞工作者與撰稿人的道路,塑造了他的人生與身分。《Barbarian Days》不僅是對於衝浪的精彩紀錄,也是冒險故事、旅行文學與回憶錄的總合,榮獲2016年普立茲傳記文學獎。

Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography

“Reading this guy on the subject of waves and water is like reading Hemingway on bullfighting; William Burroughs on controlled substances; Updike on adultery. . . . a coming-of-age story, seen through the gloss resin coat of a surfboard.” 
—Sports Illustrated
 
Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. 
 
Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves.
 
Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity.
 
Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.
 
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